Day 7....
Today we are starting out slowly, having trudged for 23 km yesterday from Eunate to Villahuerte across fields and through groves and up and down massive hills. It is quite warm in the heat of the day.
Beginning to harden off physically, and now the inner landscape begins to change as I log in mile after mile with only myself for company. I lost Stuart yesterday and walked for five hours without seeing him. He caught up with me later at the albergue we had luckily discussed settling into.
Many people on the camino seem to be here for the "motif sportif", and it has been surprisingly secular in tone. Surprising to us, but as someone told me, the camino has its way of transforming the pilgrim´s motives as they move deeper into the experience of this long walk.
We stayed at a very special place two days ago, a detour off the camino called Eunate.
Eunate is a Romanesque church from the 15th century, allegedly built by the Templars, and housed pilgrims who were suffering from the hardships of the road. It rises out of nowhere in the fields like a mirage.
The hospitaleros at the simple albergue, Marie Rose and Girard, put us and seven others up on the mattresses on the floor. Girard took us into Eunate church after dinner for a pilgrim prayer in three languages, and we sang a chant and a Frenchman sang an ancient pilgrim anthem. We all held hands and laid candles on the altar. Eunate is a very special place of hospitality and serenity. Two young pilgrims arrived on horseback, and the horses were lovingly tended by all.
I´ve been unable to post pictures, but will keep trying.
Today, we move further into the lovely vineyards. Ultreia!
Today we are starting out slowly, having trudged for 23 km yesterday from Eunate to Villahuerte across fields and through groves and up and down massive hills. It is quite warm in the heat of the day.
Beginning to harden off physically, and now the inner landscape begins to change as I log in mile after mile with only myself for company. I lost Stuart yesterday and walked for five hours without seeing him. He caught up with me later at the albergue we had luckily discussed settling into.
Many people on the camino seem to be here for the "motif sportif", and it has been surprisingly secular in tone. Surprising to us, but as someone told me, the camino has its way of transforming the pilgrim´s motives as they move deeper into the experience of this long walk.
Eunate is a Romanesque church from the 15th century, allegedly built by the Templars, and housed pilgrims who were suffering from the hardships of the road. It rises out of nowhere in the fields like a mirage.
The hospitaleros at the simple albergue, Marie Rose and Girard, put us and seven others up on the mattresses on the floor. Girard took us into Eunate church after dinner for a pilgrim prayer in three languages, and we sang a chant and a Frenchman sang an ancient pilgrim anthem. We all held hands and laid candles on the altar. Eunate is a very special place of hospitality and serenity. Two young pilgrims arrived on horseback, and the horses were lovingly tended by all.I´ve been unable to post pictures, but will keep trying.
Today, we move further into the lovely vineyards. Ultreia!
Alice,
ReplyDeleteSo glad that you were able to stay at Eunate! There pilgrims have worshiped for one thousand years. For you and me, as for those multitudes, Eunate is close to paradise on earth. May peace in such a timeless place always continue.
Margaret Meredith